Exploring the Evolution of the Patek Philippe Nautilus

When Patek Philippe unveiled the Nautilus in 1976, it was met with raised eyebrows. A stainless-steel sports watch with an integrated bracelet — priced like a gold dress watch? It defied expectations. Fast-forward to 2025, and the Nautilus is one of the most coveted timepieces on the planet.

Let’s take a journey through its evolution — from Gérald Genta’s revolutionary sketch to its modern-day incarnations.

1976: The Birth of a Legend — Ref. 3700/1

The first Nautilus, Ref. 3700/1, was introduced during a time when the quartz crisis was reshaping the watch industry. Designed by the legendary Gérald Genta, it featured a bold, ship porthole-inspired case, a horizontally embossed dial, and an ultra-thin automatic movement (caliber 28-255C).

• Nickname: “Jumbo” due to its 42mm width (massive for the era)

• Case material: Stainless steel

• Bracelet: Integrated with polished center links

Despite initial skepticism, it quickly became a cult favorite among collectors who appreciated its unconventional elegance.

1980s–1990s: Expansion of the Nautilus Line

Patek Philippe slowly expanded the collection in the decades that followed:

• 1981 – Ref. 3800: A mid-size version at 37.5mm, featuring a central seconds hand and new automatic movement (caliber 335 SC). This made the Nautilus more accessible to a wider audience.

• 1996 – Ref. 3710/1A: Introduced Roman numerals and a power reserve indicator, adding complication without compromising the iconic case shape.

These models solidified the Nautilus' reputation as a refined yet sport-ready timepiece.

2006: A Modern Icon — Ref. 5711/1A

To celebrate the 30th anniversary of the Nautilus, Patek introduced Ref. 5711/1A — a modern reinterpretation of the original 3700. It became an instant icon.

• Case size: 40mm

• Movement: Caliber 324 SC with a central seconds hand and date

• Dial: Blue gradient with horizontal grooves

Over time, variations followed — including white, green, and Tiffany blue dials — each becoming collector gold. The 5711 reached record-breaking prices on the secondary market, often 3–5x over retail.

2021–2022: Farewell to the 5711

In a surprise move, Patek announced it would discontinue the 5711, culminating in the release of two highly sought-after final editions:

• Ref. 5711/1A-014: Featuring a rich olive green dial

• Ref. 5711/1A-018 “Tiffany Dial”: A collaboration with Tiffany & Co., produced in only 170 pieces — one of which sold for $6.5M at auction in 2021

These models became instant collectibles, symbolizing the end of an era.

2022–2025: The Nautilus Redefined — Ref. 5811/1G

To follow up the 5711, Patek released the Ref. 5811/1G-001 — crafted in white gold, not stainless steel, signaling a shift toward even more exclusivity.

• Case size: Slightly increased to 41mm

• Material: White gold only

• Features: Updated case construction, new movement (caliber 26-330 S C), and a stunning sunburst blue dial

In 2023–2024, Patek added more complications to the Nautilus lineup — including annual calendars and chronographs — while keeping production tight to maintain demand and prestige.

2025 Outlook: Where the Nautilus Stands Today

The Nautilus remains one of the most valuable timepieces in the secondary market. Despite rising retail prices and limited availability, demand continues to soar — especially for discontinued or low-production references.

Collectors prize:

• Discontinued steel references (like the 5711/1A)

• Unique dial colors (green, salmon, Tiffany blue)

• Complication models (such as the 5712 and 5980)

🏁 Final Thoughts

What began as a bold experiment in the 1970s has evolved into one of the most iconic watches in modern horology. The Patek Philippe Nautilus blends sportiness, elegance, and collectibility in a way few other models can.

At Investment Watches, we specialize in sourcing hard-to-find Nautilus references for our clients — including discontinued classics and new-generation masterpieces. Whether you're just beginning your collection or looking to upgrade, we’re here to help you secure a true icon.